Undercover - cow hide suede boa jacket - Guru Guru collection - FW 2006
je vous remets la description très complète du vendeur à qui je l'avais achetée :
Up for sale here is a very rare piece. This one comes from Undercover’s
fall-winter 2006 collection, called “guru guru”. The collection followed the
“T” collection of 2005, which was heavily inspired by 60s German psychedelic
bands. Guru Guru went in a similar vein (the collection shares its name with
another German psych rock band), although took on a much darker aesthetic.
Colors were mostly black, but fits and quality as always were spot on. It was a
collection that proved to be relatively popular in Japan, although it was quite
hard to come by in other places.
The signature pieces of guru guru, as is often the case for Undercover, were the jackets. They released a number of blazers with interesting details this season, as well as heavier jackets like this. What we’ve got here is something totally unique to the season, a design the label have not repeated, let alone something that anyone else has touched.
Exterior is a black cow leather suede. Like the best leathers, this is a
full grain, allowing the natural inconsistencies of the animal skin to show.
The dye job is also somewhat unique in that it is not a uniform black. There
are somewhat lighter and darker shades, what I assume to be a natural reaction
to the dye and the suede. Other high quality brands utilizing similar processes
on suede, like Visvim for example, have similar coloring effects.
The interior is then fully lined in a polyester boa material, basically a faux fur. Undercover was really into doing these kinds of faux fur linings this season and the previous winter’s ‘arts and crafts’ collection. The lining of course ensures that this is indeed a good winter weight jacket.
Then there are the details. This season was particularly crazy in their patterning and the incorporation of a variety of details into the outerwear, this jacket being no exception. Button closure is asymmetric at the top, almost like a motorcycle jacket (but using buttons instead of zippers), and has hook closure allowing you to wear the neck up or down. This was another signature of the season. There are two chest pockets, two side pockets (also fully lined in the boa fabric), and working cuffs that allow you to show the interior lining if you like. The jacket buttons fairly high, leaving the bottom open. It’s a unique closure style, but it definitely works in my opinion. Buttons are all branded.
Patterning is also crazy and totally unique to the season. You can see this in particular on the back detail, where there are considerable anatomic details going in. Front also has darting, allowing the fit to stay trim but providing a good degree of freedom of movement.
As you can probably guess, these pieces did not come cheap at retail. They were produced in very small quantities and are now long, long gone. Japanese retail was around $1500 and about $2500 outside of Japan. Get it here much cheaper.
Size is labeled a 3, fitting like a somewhat medium. I measure the chest at 20”, shoulders at 17”, length at 29” in the front and 26” in the back, both from the base of the neck, and sleeves at 26” from the shoulder. The jacket comes in used but excellent shape with no holes, tears, stains or obvious signs of wear. Made in Japan."